Most people researching a wheel color change in South Florida run into the same wall: nobody publishes a price. You fill in a form, you wait for a callback, and the number arrives attached to a sales conversation.

So here is the number first.

The short answer

Wheels 20 inches and under are $600 per complete set of four. Wheels from 21 to 24 inches are $700 per complete set. That is the price for the work, not a starting point that climbs once someone looks at the car.

The finish you choose does not change it. Blackout, graphite, gunmetal, a refreshed OEM-style silver, bronze, gold — every finish in the library is the same price. There is no premium color tier, which is the part most people expect and don't get.

Why size sets the price and color doesn't

The honest reason is surface area and time. A 22-inch wheel has substantially more face, lip, and spoke area than a 17-inch wheel, and more area means more prep, more material, and more hours. That scales in a way that is easy to be straightforward about, so it is the only thing the price tiers on.

Color doesn't scale. Once a wheel is prepped, a darker finish is not more work than a lighter one, and bronze is not more work than black. Charging more for it would be charging for the choice rather than the labor.

What the number already includes

The price covers the coating work plus the logistics that usually turn into line items elsewhere:

  • Pickup and return across Miami-Dade, Broward, and Palm Beach. This is a mobile service with no public showroom — there is nowhere to drive to, by design. On-site work at your driveway, condo garage, or office lot is available where access and wheel condition allow.
  • Same-day turnaround for qualifying services. Confirmed when you send photos, since it depends on condition, finish, and where you are in the coverage area.
  • A lifetime labor warranty for the original owner, covering the labor for the life of the finish. It excludes physical damage and does not transfer with the car.

What can change it

Condition, and essentially only condition. Excessive curb rash, corrosion that has gone past the surface, or problems left behind by a prior repair all add work, and that can move the price.

This is also the honest limit of the service: it recolors wheels, it does not repair them. Deep curb damage, cracks, and bends need a structural repair first, from someone who does that work. The coating then goes over a sound surface. Anyone offering to make a bent wheel disappear under a finish is selling you a problem for later.

That is why every quote starts with photos of all four wheels rather than a phone conversation — the condition is the variable, so it is the thing that has to be seen before a number is confirmed.

How this compares to powder coating

Published shop and industry guides generally put powder coating at roughly $100 to $250 per wheel, plus about $15 to $60 per wheel to dismount and remount the tire. Those are marketing figures rather than independent survey data, so treat them as a range, but they land a full set in broadly similar territory once the tire work is added.

The real difference is not the money. Powder coating means the wheels come off the car, the tires come off the wheels, the TPMS sensors come out, and everything goes into an oven for a bake cure. That is typically a multi-day shop stay, and it puts heat into the alloy — enough that some wheel manufacturers take a position on powder coating in their warranty terms.

Direct-to-Metal coating skips the disassembly and the oven entirely. Nothing is dismounted, no sensors are handled, no heat goes into the wheel. For a daily-driven car that is the practical difference: you are not without it for three days.

To be straight about the tradeoff in the other direction: a baked powder coat is generally regarded as the harder-wearing finish against stone chips. DTM's case is prep quality, no disassembly risk, no oven heat, and a same-day return — not a claim to be tougher than a factory-grade bake.

How it compares to doing it yourself

Peelable rubber coatings like Plasti Dip cost very little up front. Owner reports put realistic life on wheels at roughly one to three years with good prep and four or five coats, less if brake dust gets into the coating — which, on a wheel, it does. It also has to peel cleanly when you are done with it, and that gets harder the longer it has been on.

Rattle-can paint fails for a more specific reason: adhesion. Brake dust and road film left on the surface stop the coating bonding, so it lifts at the lip and around the lug holes first. The prep is the entire job, and it is the part that gets skipped.

Neither is a bad idea for a car you are not precious about. Neither is what you want on a $90,000 SUV that lives outside in salt air.

Getting your actual number

Photos of all four wheels in daylight are enough to confirm condition, finish direction, and a pickup or on-site window — and to confirm whether your set is the $600 or the $700 tier. Send them through the quote form, or call (954) 498-5079.

If your wheels are already showing the chalky white bloom that South Florida's salt air and UV produce, it is worth reading why this climate ages factory wheels faster before deciding between a refresh and a repair.